What Headphones Should I Buy?

This is a companion to Headfi for Dummies.

One of the most frequent kinds of posts on Reddit’s headphone subreddits is the “Help me pick the best X for $Y.” Sometimes it includes a budget, sometimes a location, sometimes a use case, and all of those things can substantially impact the recommendations I would make. This is an attempt to say in a vacuum, with none of that information, what I would pick at a given price point.

There’s a real philosophical question when it comes to headphone recommendations (especially by tier): is it better to have one pair of good all-around headphones, or a couple pairs of decent ones that excel at specific things? Clearly, I come down on the side of a wide variety instead of one or two really, really expensive ones (though my max keeps creeping up over time …). But, for purposes of this list, I’m pretending that you get to have ONE headphone across the three major categories (closed, open, and wireless/ANC), and making my best recommendation based on that budget. For each, there are always upgrades and I’m happy to answer any questions you have. I have mostly written a MUCH longer, more detailed post about my approach to building tiers, but I’m not sure it’s going to be useful for anything or anyone so I decided to try this approach.

[Caveats: links are to mostly to Amazon for convenience (and I have signed up for an Amazon Affiliate account, but it’s not clear to me whether it actually worked, so links below MIGHT be affiliate links?), but I suggest finding local shops to support or using websites like headphones.com or tmr.com. While the best deals in headfi are almost always used,¹ you have to know a little bit about what you’re doing (and be willing to accept something that someone else has worn for some period of time!), so mostly for first purchases I’d suggest the new market OR talking to a local shop that you trust. That out of the way, here are my suggestions.]

“I want to spend $X on a headfi system. What should I get?”

The Tiers

$20 — Wait, Earpods aren’t Great?

Tangzu Wan’er 2, with an aftermarket Kinera cable.

This tier is about being able to listen to music, period, that sounds vaguely like how it was intended to sound.

Tangzu Wan’er 2 ($20),² using a device you own with a headphone jack or buying a $9 Apple Dongle

Upgrades/Sidegrades: Lot of good $20 IEMs in the space right now. Here’s a short list of ones I’ve enjoyed: Moondrop Chu II (mild v-shape), 7hz x Crinacle Zero:2 (bass boosted), Truthear Gate (neutral-ish), Moondrop Space Travel (true wireless, v-shaped). Most of these have surprisingly good cables, but there are some pretty good aftermarket cables that might give you better quality of life (coil, drape, microphones, USB-C terminations, etc.).

$50 — I’m Just a Boy (or Girl³), Standing in front of my Phone, asking it to love me …

Top: Tangzu Wan’er 2 and Drop x Koss KSC 75 (with aftermarket pads). Bottom: North American Apple dongle, JCALLY JM12, and Fiio BTR11.

This tier is about figuring out what you like/want in your audio experience.

Wired:
- Headphones:
  - Tangzu Wan’er 2 AND Moondrop Chu II,⁴ OR
  - Wan’er 2 and Drop x Koss KSC75 ($25).⁵
- Apple Dongle ($9) OR JCALLY JM12 ($10)⁶
Wireless:
- Tangzu Wan’er 2 ($20)
- Fiio BTR11 ($20)
- Apple Dongle ($9)

Some people can listen to IEMs comfortably for long periods of time, and others can’t. IEMs also vary a lot in terms of shape and tuning; with this tier you’re trying to figure out 1) whether you can comfortably use IEMs or not, and whether you prefer a more neutral (audiophile-ish) tune in the Wan’er 2 or a more consumer focused (v-shaped; increased bass and treble) tune in the Chu II.

$75 — Audio-curious

This tier is about getting a slightly better listening profile.

Dunu Titan S2 ($65)
Apple Dongle ($9)

The Titan are a better made, more durable IEM than anything in the higher tiers, and I personally find it very comfortable. There are a bunch of IEMs in this category and under that are really fun.

$100 — Dabbler

This is the first tier where you can start to consider some serious over ears, though with some compromises and trade offs, and if I were spending $100 or less I personally would still stick with IEMs.

Moondrop Aria 2 ($80),
Fiio BTR11 ($20, wireless) OR Apple Dongle ($9, wired)
OR
Hifiman x Drop HE 4XX ($99)

Alternatively, there are people who really like the Philips SHP9500 (~$85) open-back over ears, which you could pair with the Apple Dongle ($9).⁷

It’s also worth noting that if you have a 3D printer or access to one and some basic soldering skills (or willingness to learn), this is about the range where things like Capra Audio‘s Ouroboros Closed Back and Satyr 3 open back headphones start to be doable. They are genuinely excellent headphones that I think compete against a lot of the stuff in the $500+ tiers.

The Capra Ouroboros (Golem’s mod), a 3D printed headphone.

$150 Baby’s First For-Serious Headphone

This is the first tier where you’re in no-huge-compromises over-ear territory to me, and you’ll see IEMs mostly fall off this list now for comfort and usability reasons FOR ME⁸.

Fiio FT1 Closed-back ($150).⁹

If you’re open to building 3D printed headphones, this is where DMS’s Open Omega falls, and it’s really excellent as well.

The DMS Open Omega, a 3D printed version of the DMS Project Omega.

$200 — Baby Audiophile

This is the first tier where you start getting into audiophile grade open-back headphones.

Closed back:
- Fiio FT1 Closed-back ($150)¹⁰
- Fiio BTR11 ($20) AND Apple Dongle ($9)
Open back:
- Sennheiser x Drop HD 6XX ($199).¹¹ [The price on this varies a lot; it’s often down around $180 in which case I’d recommend getting the JM6 Pro dongle ($20) as well.¹²]
Wireless:
- Apple Airpods Pro 2 ($199).¹³

$250 — Getting Serious, Now

This tier is really about figuring out what your preferences are, as we’re getting close to the sweet spot for headphones when it comes to bang-for-buck. Diminishing returns starts to strike here, though this is the tier where I would start thinking about DACs and amplification beyond getting something for $10 or $20. This is also the tier where you get the first legitimately good-sounding ANC over ears in the Momentum 4.

Closed back:
- Fiio FT1 Closed-back ($150)
- Schiit Magni amplifier¹⁴ ($119)
Open back¹⁵:
- Sennheiser x Drop HD 6XX ($199).
- Moondrop Dawn Pro Dongle ($50)
Wireless/ANC
- Sennheiser Momentum 4 ($249.99)

Upgrades: I’d consider the Magni, Topping L30II, or JDS Atom over the Dawn Pro dongle for dedicated desktop use of the 6XX; the Dawn Pro is great for the 6XX specifically but lacks things like a physical volume knob and may not scale quite as well to future headphone purchases as the desktop amps will. The cable that ships with the 6XX is also pretty awful, quality of life wise, so I’d consider a better cable. Youkamoo makes a $20 balanced-capable cable for the Sennheiser 2-pin connector, which will let you get the best out of the Moondrop Dawn Pro and some higher-end amplifiers.

$300 — The Sweet Spot

This is the tier where I would start seriously considering amplification and DACs beyond dongles. The FT1 absolutely will stand up to really excellent, highly-resolving equipment, but starting here the headphones are a lot more sensitive. Amp/DAC upgrades won’t give you as much bang for your buck as upgrading headphones, but they can be real quality of life upgrades (and work for multiple pairs of headphones as you grow in this hobby).

Closed back:
- Fiio FT1 Closed-back ($150)
- Schiit Magni amplifier ($119)
- Apple Dongle ($9) & Amazon Basics RCA to 3.5 mm cable ($8)¹⁶
Open back:¹⁷
- Hifiman Edition XS ($210) OR Fiio FT1 Pro ($220) [Edition XS if you want a more “objective tune”, the Pro if you want a more fun listening experience. I prefer the Pro.]
- JDS Atom Amp+ ($99)
Wireless/ANC
- Sennheiser Momentum 4 ($249.99)

Upgrade: I almost recommended the Audeze Maxwell ($300 for PC/PS5 version, $330 for Xbox version) as a my closed back pick in this tier, especially for gamers. It’s an unusual pick for me; they’re a wireless, active closed-back headphone aimed at the gaming market but, once you apply an EQ profile in the (somewhat buggy) app, they’re really great. I think the sound quality is pretty even between these options, and there are some real conveniences to a wireless headset with a decent mic. Unless you need active noise cancellation for a particular use case, I’d take them over the Momentum 4 as well.

$500 — Mid-fi

This is the tier where things really open up, and there are a LOT of good options out there. Here’s what I’d personally recommend for $500, but I have a lot of reviews of good stuff here.

Closed back¹⁸
- Fiio FT1 ($150), Schiit Magni ($119), Schiit Modi ($129)
  OR
- DCA Aeon x Closed ($499)
Open back:
- Meze 105 AER ($399)
- JDS Atom Amp+ ($99)
Wireless/ANC¹⁹
- Sennheiser Momentum 4 ($249.99)
  OR
- Airpods Max ($499)

Upgrades: This is the tier where the siren call of the used market grows stronger. I really like the DCA Aeon x Closed at $499, but I like the Focal Elegia used around $250 or $300 waaaay more.²⁰ And as good as the 105 AER is, to me their big brother the Meze 109 Pro is just better. You can find it used for around $400. I also bought my Focal Bathys (my wireless pick at $750 below) for less than $400. If you have a shop you trust, or someone who can help you pick a good used pair, that’s worth considering.

$750 — I am Audiophile, hear me roar!

This is the tier where you really have to figured out what you want; you’re spending serious money and it’d be a shame to spend it on something you don’t like. It’s also where you need to start really taking amplifiers and DACs into more account.

Closed back
- DCA Aeon x Closed ($499)
  AND
- DAC/Amp:
  - Schiit Magni ($119)
  - Schiit Modi ($129)
Open back²¹:
- Hifiman Arya Stealth²² ($699)
  AND
- Moondrop Dawn Pro Dongle ($50)
  OR
- Meze 105 AER ($399)
  AND
- Schiit Magni ($119) & Schiit Modi ($129)
Wireless/ANC
- Focal Bathys ($685)
  AND
- A good, long, flexible USB-C to USB-C cable for using the Bathy’s excellent DAC mode hardwired to a source when you’re in one place.

Upgrades: At this point, we’re talking about headphones that are resolving enough to be able to hear *some* differences between *some* amplifiers and DACs, and that might benefit from something like a tube amplifier. I personally really love the Apos Gremlin tube amplifier, but it needs a balanced DAC to feed it. A Gremlin, a Moondrop Dawn Pro/Fosi DS2, and a 4.4 mm to 4.4 mm cable would give you a fun, tube-y setup for a Stealth, 105 AER, or Aeon x Closed.

The ridiculous, but much beloved, Apos Gremlin tube amp

We’re also really hitting the wall of diminishing returns at this point, so you might think about expanding your collection horizontally. For example, both the Aeon and the Arya are planar magnetic headphones, so you might also consider picking up a dynamic driver headphone like a 6XX just to see which you prefer.

$1000 — Wait, what are diminishing returns again?

The Meze 109 Pro, my favorite headphone.

This is the tier where the diminishing returns really start kicking you in the teeth. The Meze 109 Pro are my favorite headphone, period, but they’re twice the price of the 105 AER and only maybe 10% better with a VERY similar tune. This is also the tier where I’d first start considering moving beyond the entry level Schiit (Modi/Magni), Topping (L30II/E30II), or JDS (Atom DAC/Atom Amp) stacks.

Closed back
- DCA Aeon x Closed ($499)
- Schiit Mimir²³ ($299) and Schiit Midgard ($219)[or if you can find one, the Schiit Magnius²⁴]
Open back:
- Meze 109 Pro ($799)²⁵
- Schiit Magni ($119) & Schiit Modi ($129)
Wireless/ANC
- Focal Bathys ($685)²⁶

Upgrades: The Aeon is an unusal tune for a closed back, so I’d consider upgrading to a Focal Celestee ($899) for a more traditional bass tune. The 109 Pro are my favorite headphone, but they definitely benefit from a better DAC/amp combo so I’d consider upgrading to the Chord Mojo 2 or a higher end Schiit stack. In fact, feast your eyes below!

$1500 — Now, we listen with our eyes too!

This is the tier where some of our financial decisions become just a bit unhinged from a purely sound-based perspective. I’m genuinely not sure that I think any headphone in this category and going forward is “worth” it, but at this point they start to be more than just headphones; they’re status pieces, or art objects, or … something else. There’s a reason I don’t own much in this category despite being a bit of a spendthrift with some disposable income.

Closed back²⁷
- ZMF Bokeh Closed ($1099)²⁸
  AND
- Amp/DAC:
  - Apos x Geshelli Merlin DAC ($225) [or Schiit Mimir ($299) if you’re boring, or Apos x Community Druid DAC ($160) if you’re R2R curious]
  - Apos Gremlin ($120)²⁹ [or Midgard ($219) if you don’t want tubes, or want single-ended as an option.]
Open back³⁰:
- Meze 109 Pro ($799);
  AND:
- Amp/DAC:
  - Chord Mojo 2 ($650)
    OR
  - Schiit Mimir ($299), Schiit Asgard X ($399) [or Midgard ($219) if you want balanced but not crazy power, or Jotunheim 3 if you want balanced and power ($499)]
Wireless/ANC
- Focal Bathys MG ($1499)³¹

Upgrades: The Meze 109 Pro and Chord Mojo 2 is my “best” and most favorite combination, both in terms of sound and aesthetics, while the Bokeh Closed is probably the most beautiful object that I own (and I built it its own stand out of the same wood because it deserves it), but this is about as high as I’ve been willing to go so far. Between the Mojo 2 (tune, resolution, etc.) and my Mimir/Jotunheim 2 stack (pure power), there are VERY few headphones that I couldn’t run so unless I win the lottery, I think this is where my DAC/amp journey in particular ends.

$2,000+ — That’s a good down payment on a reasonably nice car. This is who we are now. This is what we do.

This tier is beyond what I’ve been able to convince myself to spend on audio. These are just the things that are on my radar and I really want to explore when I win the lottery. Anyone want to let me listen to any of them?!?

Closed back
- Focal Stellia ($2,999); the graphs on this one look great with good mid-range and midbass but mellow treble; like a mildly more v-shaped Focal Azurys.
- ZMF Caldera Closed ($3,499.99): I love the way Zach designs headphones, and these seem like the Bokeh Closed on steroids.
Open back:
- Meze Empyrean II ($2,999): I really love both the 109 Pro and the 105 AER, and these seem like they’re the super-duper version of that line. This is my chase headphone. Maybe when I retire in 25 years?
- Focal Utopia ($4,999): I mean, these are one of the best regarded headphones of all time. Who wouldn’t want them? Plus they’re pretty.
- Sennheiser HE-1 ($60,000): It’s a headphone that comes with a custom amplifier system, is delivered via a freight crate, and has to be set up by a team of three people. What’s not to love? There’s a shop in Singapore where you MIGHT be able to listen to it, and the next time I visit family there, I’m going to shoot my shot.
Wireless/ANC
- Focal Bathys MG ($1499); are there more expensive wireless/ANC headphones? I’m sure someone has made one. I’m never going to know about it. And that’s okay.

Frequently Asked Questions

This is a compilation of questions that I frequently respond to on Reddit and my stock answers, gathered mostly for my own convenience.

Question: Do I need a DAC or amp to run my headphones out of my computer?

Answer: Most computers have high output impedance on their audio jacks, which changes frequency responses on a lot of headphones in unpleasant and unpredictable ways. I’d always throw at least a $9 dongle in the signal chain to get away from it, unless you’re using a modern Mac (I’d go with a $9 Apple or JCALLY dongle.

Question: Do I need a DAC/amp to run the Sennheiser HD 600/650/6XX/58X/660S/660S2 (aka “6X0s”)?

Answer: Folks exaggerate a whole lot about how hard the 6X0 are to drive; sure, they’re high impedance, but they’re also pretty sensitive. There are some things that are genuinely harder to drive (like the Hifiman HE6se v.2), but there aren’t that many things that a North American Apple dongle can’t drive. The HD 600 is arguably the hardest of the bunch to drive, and even it gets to a reasonable volume at 75% on an Apple dongle.

For the 6X0, I personally really like the Moondrop Dawn Pro for $50/60, and it has a 4.4 mm Pentaconn out for when you want more volume. Paired with a $20 balanced cable from Amazon, it’s the best my 6XX have ever sounded (and I have a LOT of DACs/amps); I can’t explain why but that’s how I hear it.

I’m intrigued by the Crongle but haven’t had a chance to get my hands on it yet. Really, almost any competent DAC/amp is going to be effectively transparent and won’t matter a whole lot. The KA11 is fine, so is the Fosi DS2, the Dragonfly series (though they’re OG USB-A), etc.

Question: Is there a significant sound difference between open/closed back?

Answer: Not universally, but I generally think that open-backs are better sounding at any given price point. There’s really only one closed back under $500 that I choose to listen to regularly, and it’s that FT1 and there are a bunch of really good open backs in that price range.

Question: I need a good, solid DAC/Amp stack to drive [headphone X]. What should I buy?

Answer: Any of the basic stacks will work well (Schiit Modi/Magni, Topping E30II/L30II, JDS Atom amp 2/dac 2, etc.) for almost any headphone. Most people will notice minimal differences between them, if any.

I like the Schiit stack for their aesthetics (and I like buying American in this space, supporting a great no-nonsense company with good customer support), but they all have their advantages and disadvantages. I just think audio quality ain’t one for any of them.

There are a few random exceptions. For whatever reason, I think that Schiit stacks (particularly Magni/Modi and OG Bifrost/Asgard 2) don’t bring out the best in the HD 6XX or vice versa, so if I were running those I’d either stick with a Topping or JDS stack or upgrade to a nicer Schiit stack like Modius/Magnius or Mimir/Jotunheim 2).

Question: I’m new to this space and I want something to use for gaming. Do I want a closed-back or an open-back headphone?

Answer: Do you want to isolate yourself from the noises around you, or are you okay being able to hear the world around you? If the former, you want a closed-back. If the latter, you want an open-back (which generally are ‘better’ soundwise, though they often lose a little bit of subbass).

The Fiio FT1 is the best closed back on the market right now under $500 to my ears. I know people like the 770 but to me it’s painfully trebly and I can’t wear it for more than 10-15 minutes without getting a headache. It’s a pretty shallow market.

For an open back, I’d recommend the Fiio FT1 Pro for a fun tune, the Hifiman Sundara for a more neutral tune, and the Hifiman Edition XS if you want a bit more bass. My personal pick among those three is the Sundara.

For gaming you want something with a decent, consistent sounstage, a not-overblown bass and treble tune, and reasonable comfort for long sessions. Any of the ones I’ve recommended will meet those requirements.

Oh and get a $10 dongle DAC to get away from your motherboard’s sound, which are often pretty bad (high output impedance). If you’re in North America, Apple’s is one of the best. If you’re not, JCALLY makes a couple of good options.

Question: Are wireless headphones really worse sounding than wired ones?

Answer: Wireless is THEORETICALLY lower quality; in practice, a well-implemented Bluetooth headset can be not that much different in a lot of listening environments. As much as I love my wired headphones (and I do love them), I’m a mostly Bluetooth listener when I’m out and about.

Question: Okay, which wireless headphone should I get?

Answer: My favorite wireless headset at this point is the Focal Bathys, though it’s more expensive than I’m mostly comfortable with (might be able to find an open-box or Black Friday sale under $500, but less than that will require buying used which is iffy with battery-carrying products). It has an excellent DAC mode to run lossless plugged into a source. https://daemonxar.com/2025/06/21/focal-bathys-review-premium-sound-quality-in-anc-headphones/

The AirPods Pro 2 is my favorite earbud and they live in my pocket. I use them for public transit, power tools, and even concerts. The new Pro3 is better in most ways, except their tuning is a little less to my preference. Their ANC is really, really good, even compared to over-ears, and I’d take them over almost everything except the Bathys and the Sennheiser Momentum 4.

The Momentum 4 is the best budget pick to my ears. Anything at this price point is going to be a compromise, and while the out of the box tune isn’t my favorite, it’s pretty easily corrected using the built-in app. The Sonys, B&Os, and B&Ws can’t be corrected to a non-weird tune without a third-party app. https://daemonxar.com/2025/06/29/an-apology-to-sennheiser-momentum-4-fanbois-theyre-better-than-i-thought/

Question: I’ve really enjoyed the audiophile headphones I got, but I seriously don’t understand how you can describe the quality of the sound and whatnot. How do I learn this?

Answer: Listen to a lot of headphones. Watch good reviews and listen to those headphones. Find a credible source of graphs … and listen to the headphones, before and after you look at the graphs. There’s a lot of nuance, but rocket surgery it ain’t; just a lot of repetition and the realization that while there are more and less standard ways to use language to talk about headphones, at the end of the day it’s all a bit loosey goosey.

Or your ears don’t work that way, which is totally fine and means this will be a much less expensive hobby for you!

Question: How do I pick between the Bowers & Wilkins Px[7, 7S2, 8, 8S2] or the Sony XM[3, 4, 5 or 6]?

Answer: To me, the PX8 aren’t really any better than the XM4-5-6; they’re arguably even more of muddy bass cannons (especially in the midbass) and they have a WILD treble response. None of them can be corrected in built-in apps; the on-board EQ isn’t fine-grained enough to kill the treble peaks I hear (and that rigs measure on it). I don’t mind using EQ (and I get full parametric EQ from Roon on most devices I use), but I generally don’t want products I HAVE to use a third party tool to fully enjoy which takes these out of consideration for me. The Sonys have better ANC if you can get a good seal, but that’s challenging for a lot of people.

The only ANC headsets that I think have really good sound quality are the Focal Bathys and the Momentum 4 (after a little EQ in the app).

Question: I’m down to either the Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro or [insert virtually any headphone here]; which should I choose?

Answer: Definitely not the 990; they’re a super weird tune.

Question: I’m buying my first good pair of headphones, and I want open backs under $250. What should I buy?

Answer: There are a lot of great open backs in this general price category, and I’d commend three to your attention: the Fiio FT1 Pro would probably be my pick because I find the treble on the Edition XS challenging and as much as I love the Sundara, the Pro are just FUN to listen to. Short version is that the XS are bassier and more treble-y, Sundara the most “neutral”, and the Pro somewhere in the middle. I did a deep dive on the comparisons on my recent Sundara review: https://daemonxar.com/2025/10/26/hifiman-sundara-a-classic-in-open-back-headphone-design/#value-comparisons

Question: Do cables affect sound quality?

Answer: This is a loaded question and a lot of ink has been spilled on it.

Your mileage may vary, but to me, cables are cables are cables; unless they’re incredibly poorly made or faulty I personally can’t tell the difference between a $20 cable and a $200 one, even on VERY expensive, highly-resolving equipment. I buy cables for quality of life, not quality of sound.

This means I consider things like microphonics (if you rub the cable or bump it against something, can you hear it in the headphone?), coiling, drape, length, terminations, aesthetics, and material. It’s your money, you can do what you want. But I’ve swapped almost entirely over to Hart interconnects; not because they make my headphones sound better, but because of the sheer convenience of being able to swap amplifiers and headphones quickly and easily. And a lot of headphones (*cough* HE6se v2 *cough*) come with really, really awful cables.

For what it’s worth, I think this is true of adapters as well. A 3.5 mm cable with a 6.35 mm adapter (competently made) is indistinguishable from a 6.35 mm cable.

Question: Are balanced cables worth it?

Answer: Meh. No? Probably not? But balanced cables are compatible with single-ended systems with the right adapter, and using an adapter to plug a single-ended cable into a balanced system will end in tears, AND there are some components that are balanced-only (like the Apos Gremlin), so I mostly buy only balanced cables at this point because I’ve got a full set of balanced –> single-ended connectors. [Other than for single-ended only headphones, obviously, but I only have a couple of those left.]

Question: I live somewhere where I can only buy headphones online and without testing them, and I can’t afford to buy a bunch of stuff I won’t like. What do I do?

Answer: Same, bruh. Same.

Just like wine or whiskey, nothing really substitutes for trying a pair of headphones on your head, in person. BUT, if that’s not possible, find a reviewer with similar taste to you and start with the things they recommend. For me, it’s Resolve from the Headphone Show and Mark Ryan at Super* Review; I don’t 100% line up with them but we like a lot of the same things and I can be reasonably confident I’ll like the things they like and dislike the things they dislike (with the exception of weird things like the Audivina). Beyond that, if you’re buying online pick retailers with really good return policies like headphones.com (though watch that fine print!), or massive retailers like Amazon that price the cost of frequent returns in.

Question: Do you use EQ to increase soundstage on your headphones?

Answer: I do not, for a couple of reasons: 1) I don’t know how to EQ to increase the perception of soundstage (and my intuition is that it’s not just the FR, but also build/construction), 2) to the extent we know anything about what makes something sound wide it seems to be treble-related and I’m not the biggest fan of elevated treble, and 3) like a lot of folks at my stage in the journey, I’ve decided I personally don’t care all that much about soundstage. I don’t want everything compressed in between my eyeballs, but beyond that for music I mostly don’t care. If I want to hear something separated a lot in space, I’ll run an ATMOS mix.

Question: Should I pick headphones based on what they sound like out of the box, or after EQ?

Answer: Without a good rig and a LOT of time, you’re not going to be able to EQ out all of the issues with a bad pair of headphones even with parametric EQ. Contrary to popular opinion on Reddit, you can’t actually make any pair of headphones sound like any other pair of headphones; at best, you can make a good headphone sound great and a shitty pair of headphones sound … less shitty.

For me, as much as I enjoy having access to EQ, I don’t always use it so I prefer to get a pair of headphones I think sound good out of the box, and any improvements I can make with parametric EQ are just the icing on the cake. Comfort matters, soundstage much less so at this stage of my journey (and EQ can screw with soundstage too).

Question: Will ANC headphones running lossless and passively via a 3.5 mm analog cable sound better than they do via Bluetooth?

Answer: No. Don’t use active headphones passively unless you have no other choice; I’ve never heard one that sounded better any way other than that which it was designed for. The headphone is built around the speakers, DAC, and amp working together, and when you try to drive them passively you screw with the tuning and rarely in ways that will work well. Active headphones often rely on digitial signal processing (“DSP”) (aka EQ) to address flaws with the underlying tune by cleaning up treble spikes, adding or reducing bass, etc., and when they’re running passively, that DSP is generally turned off. This leaves you with only the hardware and any physical damping built into the headphones, and that rarely ends well.

If you want to use headphones passively, get a pair of passive headphones in the future, or a pair of bluetooth ones that can run in DAC mode, plugged in via USB-C.

Note: this doesn’t apply to running ANC headphones in DAC mode (i.e. connected via USB-C), which can let you get lossless signals via the fully-integrated headphone system. It’s actually my favorite way to listen to the Focal Bathys.

Question: Okay, I want to buy my first pair of audiophile headphones and I want to spend $1000. What should I buy?

Answer: A pair of $200 headphones first.

Seriously, it sucks to drop a lot of money on a thing only to discover that you don’t like it. I’ve done this with cars, firearms, whiskey, power tools, 3D printers, and headphones and it doesn’t feel great.

Question: Which streaming service should I use?

Answer: Tidal is my choice out of the bunch. Better recommendations, good catalog, reasonable pricing, integration with Roon, etc., though I use Apple Music out and about on my phone. I’ve used Pandora, Amazon Music, and briefly Qboz.

Spotify is both a shitty company to support and not a great streamer (they appear to use different masters than most streamers, and not in a good way).

Question: I want to buy my first IEMs, and I have a budget of $300. What should I buy?

Answer: Buy one, two, or three of the following $20 IEMs to figure out 1) if you like/can comfortably wear IEMs for extended periods and 2) which tuning is your preference: Tangzu Wan’er II (neutral), Moondrop Chu II (mild v-shape), and 7Hz x Crinacle Zero:2 (bassy bois). All three have clear upgrade paths once you figure out what YOU like/want.

There are really good IEMs at every price tier, and a great pair of $100 IEMs is often going to be better than a great pair of $20 IEMs (at least in terms of durability, build quality, accessories, etc., as well as sound quality). Speaking from personal experience, though, it sucks to buy a $100 or $200 pair of IEMs only to realize that you either dislike IEMs generally, or REALLY don’t like the tune of the pair you picked.

Question: Should I buy one pair of headphones for $1000, or four pairs for $250 each?

Answer: This is a great philosophical question. Variety is the spice of life. I have thought about consolidating to a single pair of each type (open, closed, wireless), but I enjoy most of my pairs and I like being able to pick the right pair based on what I’m listening to/in the mood for.

I’m mid process of selling some of them to fund a pair of Empyrean IIs, though.

Question: I just bought [headphone x], and I still prefer [cheaper headphone y] even though X should be a lot better. Am I doing it wrong?

Answer: Nope! One of the joys of audiophile-dom is that we all have our own preferences, and you shouldn’t give a damn if I like the same pair of headphones that you do, or that I hate the pair you love.

I will note that I’m a big believer in the concept of brain burn-in; for me, I have heard very few pairs of headphones that I liked immediately, particularly with new or interesting tuning. Our brains get used to hearing a particular sound a particular way, and it can be quite jarring to hear things differently. For me, I won’t start critical listening for a review until I have 10-15 hours of background listening with a particular pair of headphones because I don’t trust my ears to really hear them until my brain has adjusted.

See Rule #2. ↩︎
All of the Wan’ers have sounded good to me, but I prefer the tune of the 2 over the original. ↩︎
I mean, we’re pretty sure you’re a boy if you’re here, but here’s hoping that changes! ↩︎
The OG Moondrop Chu is a pretty similar tune and an IEM that I like, but it comes with a non-detachable cable. All other things being equal, I’ll always pick a headphone with detachable cables both for future quality of life considerations and so that you can replace it if it breaks. ↩︎
Not a lot of open-back things I’d consider in this price range, but these are legitimately good. ↩︎
For IEMs, either one will be fine. If you think you’re going to upgrade to headphones at some point AND you don’t live in the US, get the JCALLY. ↩︎
I don’t think they sound particularly good, and I’d rather have the Aria 2. ↩︎
There are great IEMs stretching up in the multiple thousands of dollars; I’m just not the guy for them. ↩︎
These are truly fantastic headphones, and I cannot recommend them strongly enough. Seriously, I’d take these running out of a gaming PC over most modern ANC headphones for most use cases. ↩︎
To my ears, nothing under $500 clearly beats the Fiio FT1 so get used to seeing this. ↩︎
Genuinely one of my favorite headphones of all time, despite having a number of much “better” and more expensive headphones. ↩︎
While the 6XX can be driven just fine by a North American Apple dongle, it starts getting pretty marginal at this point and I’d prefer a bit more power. ↩︎
I’ll take these over most over-ears up until around the Focal Bathys for most use cases. ↩︎
The older I get, the more I’m convinced that the differences between the Apple dongle and a dedicated amp are smaller than I’m really comfortable with. I mostly recommend the Magni here over a dongle for 1) a physical volume knob and 2) future upgradability. You could also get the Topping L30II or JDS Atom for a similar price, and get a pretty similar performance. ↩︎
Add a $20 4.4 mm Pentaconn balanced Youkamoo cable from Amazon and you get what is probably the best my 6XX have ever sounded. I have no explanation but it’s consistent, for me. ↩︎
My general rule for cables is to buy cables for quality of life, not quality of sound, and Amazon basics cables are most of what I use (and I’ve tried expensive cables with expensive headphones). ↩︎
This is for most people; for me, I’m still going with the HD6XX + a JDS Atom Amp+; I personally really prefer it for most of my listening. While the Schiit Magni is usually my go to for inexpensive amps, I personally don’t think it brings out the best in the 6XX or vice versa, so I recommend JDS, Topping, or similar. ↩︎
Fiio if you want a normal tune, Aeon x Closed if you want a more audiophile tune, or are planar magnetic curious. ↩︎
Airpods Max if you’re in the Apple ecosystem, Momentum 4 if you’re not (and spend the extra $250 on a decent pair of non-ANC headphones so you know what you’re missing out on). ↩︎
And I paid $190 for mine, like-new but missing a $.50 3.5 mm to 6.35 mm adapter. ↩︎
I personally would prefer the 105 AER, but the Arya Stealth are a very popular, beautifully objective headphone. ↩︎
The Arya Stealths aren’t super amplifier sensitive, but they do benefit from a good, powerful amp. That’s where I’d upgrade at this level. ↩︎
The Mimir is their newest DAC and replaced the Modius in Schiit’s lineup. I’m generally a fan of finding Schiit’s older gear, cheaper, but Mimir can come with Forkbeard, Schiit’s digital control platform. I personally really like Forkbeard, as it lets me apply a negative pre-gain at the DAC level which means I can use more of the volume knob for more fine volume control. For me, it’s worth the extra money just for that. ↩︎
The Magnius is their older generation balanced headphone amplifier, and I’m a big fan. ↩︎
My favorite headphone of all time. ↩︎
I can’t justify spending more than this on a pair of ANC/wireless headphones. I’m sure some of them are lovely, but the ones I’ve tried have been disappointing. Use the money I saved you to buy a pair of HD6XX, a Moondrop Dawn Pro, and a Youkamoo balanced cable, and take your sweetheart out to a nice chain restaurant dinner with the last $45. You can thank me later. ↩︎
This is a frankly ridiculous but ridiculously awesome setup. ↩︎
Are they the best *sounding* closed backs I’ve ever known? Maybe not, but everything else about them is perfect to me. ↩︎
The Gremlin is a pretty ridiculous piece of kit, but I genuinely love it and ZMF headphones generally play very well with tube amps. Worth noting that Gremlin doesn’t have a single-ended input or output so get the right cables. ↩︎
The Meze 109 Pro and the Chord Mojo 2 is my personal favorite combination at this point in my journey, but while the Mojo 2 is reasonably powerful, it won’t drive everything in my collection particularly well. The Mimir/Asgard X combo might seem like overkill for the 109 Pro, and it sort of is, but would let you run almost anything outside of a Mod House Tungsten ↩︎
I’m sure they’re great. They’re incredibly well reviewed. But they’re $1500, for ANC headphones. And I personally can’t stomach that. If you get them, I’d love to give them a try!

Hey Focal, I’d love to review these! Love your products.

Kidding.

Mostly. ↩︎

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Lawyer, unabashed nerd and geek. Purveyor and pusher of excellent sci-fi/fantasy, good food, and repartee. He/him. Dog dad/servant to @Goldendenali.